Monday, August 27, 2012

Bolivia: Copacabana


We crossed the border into Bolivia just outside the lakeside town of Copacabana.  Even though its considered a Bolivian "resort" town, Copacabana is pretty small.  There are plenty of tourist shops down a main road and a large cathedral that was nice from the outside.  The highlight of Copacabana was probably our room.  Because of the elevation, it gets very cold in Copacabana at night.  Our hotel had no heating, but guests were invited to use propane heaters in their rooms....from 6pm to 10pm only...and only two heaters were available between about 15 rooms.  We were lucky and managed to get a heater both nights we were there.  The first night, the propane ran out by about 9 though.  I highly doubt they refilled the propane the next day, so in all likelihood, the second night, we were the only ones with any heating at all.



Bolivia Immigration
Simon about to cross the border

Inside the Cathedral
Me standing in the courtyard outside the cathedral


Copacabana and Lake Titicaca



Some turkeys that decided to join us for lunch. This restaurant would not get an "A"
While we were in Copacabana, Bolivians and Peruvians started piling in to the town and lining up to have their cars blessed at the cathedral.  Apparently, this happens every year at the beginning of August.  Before the blessing, the vehicle owners dressed their (unwashed) cars in all kinds of flowers, hats, boas, and small figurines.
All dressed up for the blessing
From Copacabana we took another bus to La Paz.  Crossing Titicaca was especially interesting.  All the passengers piled off and took a small boat.  The bus, and all the luggage with it, was piled on to what can be described as a large raft with a small motor attached.  The bus slowly floated across.

Boats we crossed Lake Titicaca in

Our bus crossing Lake Titicaca

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Peru: Lake Titicaca

We took a bus from Arequipa to Puno to visit Lake Titicaca.  Other than the lake, I don't think there is any reason to visit Puno.  The most interesting place in the town was a large supermarket which I referred to as Peru's Target.  It had everything - food, electronics, clothing, toys, even car tires.  Anyway, during our one full day in Puno, we set off for the port to visit the Floating Islands of Uros.  After a very very slow twenty minute boat ride we arrived in Islas Uros.  I was expecting one big island, but Uros is actually made up of many different islands, with each island having about four or five families on it.  The floating islands are made from reeds that grow in the lake.  Walking on the reed island feels a bit like walking on a trampeline.  The trip to Uros was very touristy.  The community did not seem very authentic and we doubted whether people really live on those particular islands anymore.  However, it was still interesting to get an idea of how people used to live, and still do on reed islands that are more difficult to reach.

Beautiful Puno

A reed restaurant

Welcome to Uros

Simon on the island

A local family

A reed boat

Peru: Arequipa and Colca Canyon


Arequipa was meant to be just a starting point for Colca Canyon but ended up having a few interesting sights of its own.  The city itself, at an elevation of about 7,800 feet, is overlooked by three volcanoes - El Misti, Chachani, and PichuPichu.  It is often referred to as the white city because many of its buildings are made of sillar, a white volcanic stone.  We visited the cathedral and toured a monastery, founded in 1549 (Monasterio Santa Catalina.) 

Tiny doorway
Monasterio Santa Catalina
 We also visited a museum which houses "Juanita," an Incan mummy found in 1995 after a nearby volcanic eruption melted the ice caps that had preserved her body for nearly 550 years.

"Juanita"
Arequipa was also where we had our first introduction to the traditional Peruvian attire as many of the locals (even ones who were not just trying to have tourists take pictures with them for a price) dressed in traditional clothing.  It was easy to find alpacas and llamas in the main square (the Plaza de Armas) with their owners eager for photos. 

Traditional clothes and pet pigeons

Plaza de Armas all dressed up for Peruvian Independence Day
In Arequipa we booked a two day tour to Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world.  The canyon is quite a ways away and we spent about six hours on a hot, cramped bus.  The bus did have air conditioning, but why use it?  At least there was some relief when we ascended to the higher, colder elevation.  At one point, we reached almost 16,000 feet where we stopped for an awesome view of the area, which included at least four different volcanoes.  

Our awesome ride
Mirador de los Andes, 4,910m
We stopped several other times, mainly so that the locals could sell their crafts and alpaca wool scarves and hats to us.  

Alpacas
Locals selling crafts in the middle of nowhere

We spent the night in Chivay, a very small town in the Colca Valley.  The room was better than expected but did not have heating and at night temperatures dropped below freezing.  We actually ran the shower for a while hoping that it might heat up the room a little bit.  In the morning we left bright and early for Colca Canyon.  Of course, we again had to stop several times in different towns so that the locals might sell more crafts or be given a sole or two for a picture with their alpaca.  Even though it was quite a trek to get there, Colca Canyon was worth it.  We had just over an hour to sit and take in the beautiful scenery and watch the huge condors soaring through the canyon.






Peru: Lima


We did not have a lot of time in Lima, but enjoyed exploring the historic city center.  We started at the Plaza de Armas and gave ourselves a walking tour, which consisted mostly of churches.  We took a guided tour of Monasterio San Francisco, which has a library containing more than 25,000 ancient texts and catacombs lined with bones.  Lima was our first introduction to Peru and we found Peruvians to be generally welcoming and friendly.  Even taxi drivers seemed honest - for taxi drivers anyway.  We were only called "gringos" once - by a boy yelling from a window.



Guards outside the Government Palace
Catacombs of San Francisco Monastery
Plaza de Armas

Recoleta Church of Lima

Government Palace

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Brazil: Rio and Buzios

On our flight to Rio we were surrounded by Boca Junior football fans.  They were all hyped up for a big football match and it was worse than sitting with fifty five year olds.  They sang their fight song repeatedly, couldn't seem to sit down, and even had a pillow fight.  I had never before been hit with a flying pillow on an airplane.

The weather was gorgeous in Rio when we arrived and we decided to spend a full day on the famous Copacabana Beach with Sugar Loaf Mountain in the distance and Christ the Redeemer looking over us.  It was very surreal.  Much to my surprise, the beach was not packed with people and we only saw a few of the stereotypical beautiful Brazilian women in their string bikinis.  Maybe they come out more in the summer.

The next day we were lucky to have bright blue, nearly cloudless skies when we visited Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer.  The views from both spots were spectacular.

View of Sugar Loaf Mountain from Corcovado

Simon and Christ the Redeemer

View from Sugar Loaf Mountain

Accommodation in Rio is very expensive, so after hitting the main Rio attractions, we headed to Buzios, a beach resort town about two hours away.  Buzios is on a peninsula and has several different small beaches.  Just a few blocks from our hotel was a nice, quiet strip of sand where we spent the majority of eight days.  We ventured to other beaches a couple of times and found them to be crowded and full of vendors pushing their goods on people.  One tropical storm rolled through while we were in Buzios and brought an amazing lightning show.  The same night, we spotted a lone sea turtle swimming around the harbor.  The only downside of Buzios was that since it is a resort town, all of the restaurants are quite pricey.  This meant that we had a lot of meals at Subway.

On "our" beach

Sandcastles

We had a few more days in Rio before flying to Peru.  When we returned from Buzios, the weather had changed.  Cloudy skies constantly threatened rain.  We were glad that we had gotten our nice city views before we went to Buzios.  On our last days in Rio, we visited Ipanema Beach, walked along Copacabana again, and did a lot people watching.

I had been a bit nervous about crime in Rio before we got there, but we just stuck to the tourist areas and stayed in at night, and I never felt unsafe.  I was quite pleased to have visited Rio without getting mugged.  
With mountains, rainforest, and beaches, Rio really is an awesome city. 

Copacabana Boardwalk

Cloudy day on Ipanema Beach